
The first
geographical
information on
North-Western Taimyr
dates back to the
early 17th
century, when the
estuary of the
Pyasina River was
reached by the
expeditions of the
sea-farers Luka
(1605), Kondraty
Kurochkin and Osip
Shepunov (1610),
Erofei and Nikifor
Khabarovs (1628),
Ivan Tolstoukhov
(1686-87) (Vize,
1948; Belov, 1956;
Maguidovich, 1983).
The first attempts
to round the
Taimyr Peninsula
by sea were also
undertaken at that
time. The traces of
one such expedition
undertaken by Akaky
and Ivan Muromets in
the early 17th
century - the
remains of people,
money, weapons etc.
- were found in
1940-41 by Soviet
hydrographers on the
Faddey
Island
and in the
Simsa
Bay
in the eastern part
of the
Peninsula.
The academician
A.P.Okladnikov, who
studied these
findings in 1945,
supposed that the
people went there
from the west, from
the
Yenisei
River
(Historical
monument…, 1945). In
1980s the
hydrographer
V.A.Troitsky
substantiated a
different opinion:
according to his
point of view the
deceased seafarers
tried on two ships
to sail by sea from
the
Khatanga
Bay to Yenisei
in order to take out
furs (Troitsky,
1991). The first
ship was crushed by
ice in the area of
the
Faddey
Island, the crew managed
to land out of it,
but the people did
not survive. The
second ship reached
the
Simsa
Bay,
where the crew built
a house, having left
three ill people
there. Then the ship
made its way to the
south, and four
people seem to have
got as far as
populated places.
In 1701 Taimyr was
depicted in the
“Draft-book of
Siberia”
by S.U.Remezov. In
1725-30 the land
surveyor Petr
Chichagov showed
Taimyr on the map of
Tobolsk and
Yeniseisk provinces.
However, the first
quite reliable map
of the northern
coast of the
peninsula appeared
as a result of the
work of the Great
Northern Expedition
of 1734-42 – the
largest geographical
undertaking in the
north of
Russia
until the early 20th
century. The
cartographic work on
the coasts from the
west was carried out
by D.Ovtsyn`s group,
from the east –
V.Pronchishchev`s.
The latter was
replaced in his
commander`s position
after his death in
1736 by Kh.Laptev (Belov,
1956; Troitsky,
1975). The navigator
F.Minin from
Ovtsyn`s group drew
in 1738-40 on the
map the islands,
which are now called
Dixon and Kamennye,
and left a supply of
provisions for
Kh.Laptev in the
Pyasina estuary. In
the
Yeniseisky
Bay he discovered a
log-house and a
wooden cross put up
by Ivan Tolstoukhov.
The sub-navigator
D.Sterlegov from the
same group reached,
going along the
seashore, the
northern latitude of
75o
26`.Sterlegov and
Minin were the first
who drew on the map
a massif of small
islands and
meandering straits,
dividing them, which
is now called the
Minina Skerries. The
ruins of the
log-houses on the
Chaek
River
and the
Lidia
Cape,
where Sterlegov
stayed, have
remained up to the
present time.
The northernmost
section of the
Eurasian coast was
described by the
members of Khariton
Laptev`s group – the
navigator
S.Chelyuskin, the
land surveyor
N.Chekin, the
boatswain V.Medvedev
and others. In the
spring 1740 N.Chekin
drew on the map the
coast to the west of
the Nizhnyaya
Taimyra estuary, and
he was the first who
reached on the ice
the
Russkiy
Island
in the Nordensheld
Archipelago. Next
year Kh.Laptev and
Chelyuskin completed
the cartographic
work on the coast
between
Dixon
and the estuaries of
Pyasina and
Nizhnyaya Taimyra.
In May 1742
S.Chelyuskin and the
soldiers A.Prakhov
and A.Fofanov
reached the
northernmost point
of Eurasia, having
thus completed the
cartographic work
and description of
the whole coast of
Taimyr.
On the final map of
the expedition the
coasts are truly
depicted, and the
contours of the
peninsula`s internal
parts are often
shown more correctly
than on some maps of
the early 20th
century.
In the first half of
the 18th
century there were
numerous winter
bases and even small
settlements of
fishermen and
hunters for polar
foxes on the coast
of the Yeniseisky
Bay up to today`s
Dixon. According to
V.A.Troitsky`s
reconstruction
(1972) there were
tens of winter bases
on the coast from
Dixon to the Pyasina
estuary, the owners
of which regularly
hunted within the
radius of 10-40
km
polar foxes,
reindeer, sea
animals and kept
packs of draught
dogs. The most
distant northern
winter base was a
log-house of Yakut
Fomin, which was
built on an island
in the estuary of
the
Nizhnyaya
Taimyra River.
In the second half
of the 18th
century the first
ecological crisis
took place on the
coasts of the
Pyasinsky and
Yeniseisky
Bays:
the polar foxes`
reserves were
depleted due to the
over-hunting, and
the fur hunting
became unprofitable.
Besides, a mighty
smallpox epidemics
swept over
Western Taimyr
and the majority of
population died.
Only “pyasinsk
peasants”, speaking
a peculiar Russian
language, but
looking almost like
the aboriginal
population – the
Dolgans and the
Nganasans –
continued to drive
off the herds of
domesticated
reindeer to the
coast of the
Pyasinsky Bay.
In 1843 the rivers
Verkhnyaya and
Nizhnyaya Taimyra
were investigated
during his famous
expedition by the
academician
A.F.Middendorf, who
has given their name
to his peninsula. In
the lower part of
the river`s stream
the scientist almost
died of cold, when
he was forced to
wait for help in
solitude in a snow
cave. The
fundamental work by
A.F.Middendorf “Trip
to the North and
East of Siberia”
(1869) is still a
source of natural
science information
about Taimyr.
In 1875-76 and 1878
the geological
survey of the
Dixon
and
Sibiryakova
Islands
and the right coast
of the
Yeniseisky
Bay was conducted by
N.A.E.Nordensheld.
On the
Dixon
Island he discovered a
wonderful harbour,
which he named in
honour of the
Swedish entrepreneur
Oscar Dixon. In 1878
during their famous
voyage on “Vega” in
the North-Eastern
passage Nordensheld
and his companions
landed also on
several islands of
the Minina Skerries
and the Nordensheld
Archipelago and put
up a monument on the
Chelyuskin
Cape.
On 26th
August 1878 the
Norwegian Captain
E.Iohannesen
discovered the
Uedineniya
Island
in the central part
of the
Kara
Sea.
In the second half
of August 1893
“Fram” of Fritiof
Nansen was sailing
in the Minina
Skerries. The
Norwegians landed on
the
Oleny
Island
and in several
places on the
continent in order
to hunt and to
replenish their
water supply. The
islands Sverdrup,
Scott-Gansena,
Vardroper, Mona and
Ringnes were
discovered and named
(Popov, Troitsky,
1972).
The work of the
Russian Polar
Expedition of the
Academy
of
Sciences
on the yacht “Zarya”
under the leadership
of E.V.Toll was very
fruitful. In August
1900, after a short
stay on Dixon Toll
and his companions:
the astronomer
F.Zeeberg, the
zoologist and doctor
G.E.Valter and the
student of biology
A.A.Birulya, who
worked with
G.E.Valter as a
preparator and who
became after his
death the biologist
of the expedition,
examined the islands
Polkova, Oleny and
Tsirkul in the
Minina Skerries
(Troitsky, 1972).
Due to the difficult
ice situation the
expedition was
forced to winter in
the Nordensheld
Archipelago, in the
strait between the
coast and the
Bonevi
Island,
in the bay called
“Raid of Dawn”. The
scientists and
officers of the
expedition – the
commander of the
ship
N.N.Kolomeitsev, the
senior officer
F.A.Matisen, the
hydrographer
A.V.Kolchak –
conducted numerous
hikes in the
surroundings, made a
land survey and the
first Taimyr
meteorological
observations. A
great deal of
islands was
discovered,
including the
islands Taimyr,
Pilota Alexeyeva,
Rastorgueva. During
this expedition
N.A.Beguichev (1874
– 1927), the future
famous researcher of
Taimyr, who served
on “Zarya” as a
boatswain, visited
it for the first
time.
On August 23,
1913, F.Nansen,
who was making a
large trip in the
North of Siberia in
the company of
representatives of
Siberian
administration,
Norwegian and
Russian merchants,
visited the
Dixon
Island again. At that time
the fish resources
of the
Yeniseisky
Bay were being intensively
developed. Numerous
fishing sites
“peski” of fish
industrialists were
located along the
western coast of
Taimyr.
The village
Dudinskoye became a
large centre of
fishing industry.
Each summer numerous
fishermen`s artels
occupied “toni” on
the Lower Yenisei
River and in the
Yeniseisky Bay. In
autumn a steam ship
picked up the artels
and tugged the
barges with their
catch upstream.
Fishing was also the
basis of pyasinsk
peasants` living.
In September
1914 a
forced winter stay
in the
Toll
Bay
was made by two
ice-breaking steam
ships of the
Hydrographic
Expedition of the
Arctic Ocean
“Taimyr” and
“Vaigach” under the
command of
B.A.Vilkitsky, which
were sailing from
Vladivostok
to Archangelsk. At
the same time as
they the schooner
“Eclipse” (Captain
O.Sverdrup) also
stopped for
wintering at the
Vilda
Cape.
This schooner was
hired by the Russian
Government for
conducting the
search for and
rendering help to
the expeditions of
V.A.Rusanov on
“Herkules”, of
G.L.Brusilov on
“Saint Anna” and of
G.A.Sedov on “Saint
Foka”, which
disappeared in 1912.
Regular
meteorological, ice
and hydrological
observations were
made at the winter
base in the
Toll
Bay.
N.I.Evguenov,
A.M.Lavrov and other
officers of the
expedition described
a considerable
section of the
coast, having
combined their
survey with the
survey of E.V.Toll.
A century mark was
put up for the
observation over the
sea level
fluctuations on the
Mogilny
Cape next to the burial of
the Lieutenant
A.N.Zhokhov and the
stoker
I.E.Ladonichev, who
died during the
winter stay. Food
supply storages were
laid on the
Vilda
Cape
(Evguenov, Kupetsky,
1985). After the
release from ice the
ice-breakers made
their way to
Archangelsk, where
they arrived in the
early September
1915. On Dixon the
sailors visited the
first Taimyr polar
station, which was
just built by
P.G.Kushakov (a
participant of
G.Ya.Sedov`s
expedition to the
North Pole) and the
meteorologist
E.I.Tikhomirov. The
North-Eastern
passage was gone
through along its
entire length for
the second time.
The Marine Ministry
was concerned about
the fate of the
crews from the
Hydrographical
Expedition`s ships.
In the early spring
1915 it asked
N.A.Beguichev, who
had become a
well-known
industrialist by
that time, to
organize their
evacuation to
Golchikha. Having
set out in March
from Dudinka,
Beguichev reached in
July the place of
“Eclipse”`s
winter-stay at the
Vilda Cape, where
sailors had been
transferred to by
that time. He
brought them to
Golchikha
successfully, and
then reached the
Middendorf
Bay
once again, having
discovered on the
way two large rivers
Khutuda and Lenivaya
(Bolotnikov, 1976).
In 1916 one of the
first polar
radiostations in the
Arctic began to work
on the
Dixon
Island.
Its main task was to
receive and to
transmit to special
synoptic centres a
set of information
on the weather, ice
and hydrological
conditions of the
arctic seas. Since
that time
Dixon
has turned into a
large settlement –
the “Arctic
capital”. Later the
Radiometeorological
Centre was organized
there, as well as
Dixon Administration
of Hydrometeorology,
the largest in the
USSR.
On 18th
July 1918 the
Norwegian port Varde
was left by the new
ship of Rual
Amundsen “Mod”, on
which the great
Norwegian wanted to
drift near the North
Pole. On 9th
September they
passed the
Chelyskin
Cape
and ten days later
the expedition
stayed for winter in
a small bay on the
eastern coast of the
Chelyskin
Peninsula (Amundsen,
1936). The
scientific
expedition wintered
there for the first
time and its members
paid a lot of
attention to the
study of the
surroundings. Almost
the whole crew took
part in the numerous
sleigh trips.
Meteorological,
magnetic, astronomic
and phenological
observations were
regularly made. A
year later, on 12th
September 1919 “Mod”
struggled out of the
ice and made its way
further to the east.
Two sailors Peter
Tessem and Paul
Knudsen stayed at
the place of the
winter-stay. They
were to deliver mail
and the scientific
results of the
expedition`s first
year to Dixon, from
which they were
separated by
900 km
of desert tundra.
When the snow cover
was established the
Norwegians skied to
the west, but never
reached
Dixon.
After the expedition
of 1915 the name of
N.A.Beguichev became
very well-known on
Taimyr. And it was
him that the
Norwegian Government
approached with the
request to help in
the search for the
missing Tessem and
Knudsen. The
salvation
expedition, which
left
Dixon
in April 1921 was
joined by the
Captain of the
Norwegian schooner
“Heimen” L.Jakobsen
and the
sailor-interpreter
A.Karlsen. On the
Mikhailova
Peninsula
they found the
remnants of a
bonfire with charred
bones, which were
taken for human
ones. The members of
the expedition came
to the conclusion
that Knudsen had
died there and
Tessem burnt his
corpse, so that
polar foxes could
not take it away. A
great deal of small
objects: cartridges,
cases, fragments of
outfit were found
near the bonfire.
Having regarded
their task as partly
fulfilled, the
expedition put up
memorial signs at
the place of the
findings and set out
to the south
(Troitsky, 1977).
In the summer 1922
Beguichev took part
in the expedition of
the geologist
N.N.Urvantsev, the
discoverer of
Norilsk
ore fields, which
investigated on a
sailing whale-boat
the
Pyasina
River,
sailing it
downstream and
discovering a
sailing entrance.
During their sailing
from the Pyasina
estuary to
Dixon
they came across a
small hut made of
drift-wood,
2 km
away from the
estuary of the
Zeledeyeva
River,
in which they found
the lost mail of
Amundsen (Urvantsev,
1974). On 28th
August, during their
hunt in the vicinity
of the polar station
Dixon,
Beguichev, the
topographer Bazanov
and the biologist
Pushkarev found the
body of Peter Tessem
under a rocky
precipice. The
exhausted Norwegian,
apparently, saw the
lights of the polar
station, hasted on,
slipped and fell
down, but did not
manage to stand up
and froze to death…
Beguichev and
Urvantsev were
awarded by the
Norwegian Government
with valuable gifts
for finding the mail
and for their help
in the organization
of the search.
In 1923-24 an
intensive fishing
and hunting business
development began in
the north-western
part of the
Taimyr Peninsula.
In the
Dixon
area a lot of
fishing “points”
appeared, the owners
of which, like their
ancestors in the 18th
century, caught fish
and white whales in
summer, and hunted
polar foxes in
winter. One of the
first researchers of
the fish wealth of
Pyasina
A.I.Berezovsky wrote
in 1925: “… There is
no such other place
as Pyasina, where
its natural fish
wealth, owing to its
isolation, were in
such virgin state,
in the whole world…”
(Berezovsky, 1925,
p. 86). The
acquaintance with
this river made
N.A.Beguichev create
in
1926 a
hunting artel “White
bear”, which was
joined by 6 more
industrialists and
one representative
of the aboriginal
population. Having
rafted the
Pyasina
River downstream they built a log-house
at the
Vkhodnoy
Cape. The absence of a
sufficient food
supply, an
unsuccessful hunt
and a long stay in a
damp room resulted
in a scurvy, which
struck worst of all
the oldest person –
Beguichev. On 18th
May 1927 he died,
having left in
Yeniseisk six
children in the age
from 4 to 15. On
June 28,
1964 a
monument to the
courageous explorer,
who has made a great
contribution to the
research of Taimyr,
was opened in
Dixon
settlement.
Large-scale
investigation of the
north of the
Taimyr Peninsula
began unfolding in
the early 1930s and
reached the largest
scope before the
Great Patriotic War
(1941-45). The whole
enormous scope of
works of the Arctic
development was
coordinated by the
Chief Administration
of the Northern
Marine Way (CAMNW),
organized by the
initiative of
O.Yu.Schmidt in
December 1932. CAMNW
had under its
command all
geological,
hydrographical,
biological, fishing,
hunting,
hydrological and
other expeditions.
The solution of the
task set by the
Government “to turn
the
Northern Marine Way
into a normally
functioning main
water way” required
a considerable
improvement of
hydrographical,
hydrological and
meteorological
conditions of
navigation. For this
purpose polar
stations, port
facilities, airports
and geological bases
were built on the
desert coasts of
Taimyr and on its
numerous islands.
In 1930-35 Soviet
expeditions on
ice-breaking
steam-ships “Sedov”,
“Sibiryakov”,
“Chelyuskin”,
“Malyguin”, the
ice-breaker “Ermak”,
the hydrographical
ships “Belukha” and
“Tsirkul” have
discovered and
investigated
numerous islands and
archipelagos in the
central part of the
Kara Sea – the
islands Vize,
Isachenko and
Voronina (August
1930), the islands
Izvestiy TSIK,
Arctic Institute
(1932), Kirova
(1934), the islands
Slozhny and Severny
(1935) (Popov,
Troitsky, 1972).
Numerous
hydrographical
expeditions were
called upon to
provide for the
compilation of
conditional
navigation maps of
the north-western
coast. This work was
carried out in the
early 1920s by
separate detachments
of the Committee of
the
Northern Marine Way
(existed in the
period of 1918 –
1932) and the
Administration of
Navigation Safety in
the
Kara
Sea
and the Estuaries of
Siberian Rivers
(Ubeko-Siberia).
Expeditions of the
Western Siberian
Hydrographical
Administration under
the leadership of
V.I.Vorobiyov worked
in the section from
Dixon
to the Pyasina
estuary and the
Minina Skerries.
Until 1936 the
measuring,
cartographical and
pilotage works were
only carried out in
summertime, and
therefore the work
did not move on
quickly enough. In
1936-37 the
expedition of
N.N.Alexeyev on the
hydrographical ship
“Toros” (Captain
V.A.Padzeyevsky)
stayed for winter in
the Nordensheld
Archipelago for the
first time
(Alexeyev, 1939).
The organization of
spring measurements
from the ice allowed
to speed up the
works considerably,
and the expeditions
of the late 1930s
drew on the map and
opened for intensive
navigation a very
difficult section of
the
Kara
Sea,
adjacent to Taimyr
coasts: Minina
Skerries,
Nordensheld
Archipelago,
Vilkitsky
Strait.
Before the
commencement of
regular
hydrographical works
the territory of the
Great Arctic Nature
Reserve was
investigated by
large comprehensive
expeditions, the
most fruitful of
which was the
sailing on the
schooner “Belukha”
in 1930-32 (Captain
A.K.Burke,
hydrologist
P.K.Khmyznikov) and
the western Taimyr
expedition of 1933
under the leadership
of A.I.Landin, the
head of the sector
of air prospecting
of the
Administration of
Air Service of
CAMNW, in which the
future academician
geographer
G.A.Avsyuk, the
geologist
N.P.Kheraskov and
the biologist
M.P.Rozanov
participated, as
well as the southern
Taimyr expedition of
E.I.Igolkin of
1932-34. Their main
task was fishing,
hunting,
hydrographical and
hydrological works.
At the same time the
first fishing and
hunting winter bases
were organized in
the Minina Skerries
(1930), on the
Mikhailova
Peninsula
(1931) and on the
islands of the
Pyasinsky
Bay
(1932).
An important stage
of scientific
research in Taimyr
was the creation of
a network of polar
hydrometeorological
stations there. In
September 1932 the
ice-breaking steam
ship “Rusanov” put
ashore a group of
winterers under the
leadership of the
doctor
B.G.Georguievsky on
the
Chelyuskin
Cape. The third group of
winterers (1934-35),
which was led by
I.D.Papanin, started
a large
construction, and
the
Chelyuskin
Cape became one of the
largest stations on
the route of the
Northern Marine Way.
Then the following
polar stations were
organized on the
territory of the
today`s Great Arctic
Nature Reserve:
“Ostrov Uedineniya”
(1934, Leader
S.V.Shmanev), “Mys
Sterlegova” (1934,
K.M.Zvantsev),
“Ostrov Russkiy”
(1935, P.P.Popov),
“Ust-Taimyr” (1935,
L.V.Ruzov).
Three stations
(islands Pravdy,
Gueiberga and
Tyrtova) were
founded in 1940 as
temporary and worked
at first only during
the navigation
period. A polar
station on the
Vkhodnoy
Cape
in the Pyasina
estuary worked for
several year in the
late 1930s.
Almost at the same
time geologists came
to North-Western
Taimyr. The outcrops
of bituminous coal
layers on the
eastern coast of the
Yeniseisk
Bay
have been known
since the beginning
of the last century,
and in the early
1930s several large
fields of coal,
suitable for use in
the fleet, were
discovered:
Slobodskoye,
Uboininskoye,
Krestyaninskoye. In
1935-36 the
geological group of
N.N.Mutafi
discovered a field
of very good quality
coal on the left
bank of the
Lower
Pyasina
River (Mutafi, 1939). In
1943 the coal
production began in
the Pyasinskoye
field. Large-scale
mining works were
also conducted by
large Dixonovskaya,
Yeniseisko-Pyasinskaya
(Western
Taimyr)
and Ust-Yeniseiskaya
geological
prospecting
expeditions.
Settlements, mines
and adits were
built. Thorough
mining works were
conducted in 1936-41
in
the bays Efremova
and Slobodskaya, in
the Upper Uboinaya
and
Krestyanka
Rivers,
in the area of the
Sterlegova
Cape,
the Minina Skerries
and in the southern
part of the
Nordensheld
Archipelago
(Anikeyev and
others, 1941). The
remains of the large
settlement Shakhta
Severnaya on the
Pyasinskoye field –
double house walls,
filled with coal for
warmth, foundations,
trolleys, rails, a
small cemetery,
gigantic piles of
barren rock, adits
filled with ice –
can be seen even
nowadays.
In
1934 a
wooden pole with a
carved inscription
“Hercules
1913”
was found during
topographical works
in the Mona
Archipelago on the
Veizel
Island (now
Hercules
Island).
Practically at the
same time a great
lot of things and
documents, which
belonged to
V.G.Popov and
A.S.Chukhchin, the
members of the crew
of the sailing motor
ship “Hercules”,
were found by
hydrographers on a
nameless island in
the Minina Skerries.
On this ship the
geologist
V.A.Rusanov planned
to sail along the
whole northern coast
of
Russia.
After their research
work in the summer
1912 on the
Spitzbergen
Archipelago
“Hercules” made its
way to the east and
disappeared without
a trace… Here the
first evidence of
the fate of
V.A.Rusanov and his
companions finally
appeared.
A lot of expeditions
examined afterwards
the places of these
findings, as well as
a section of the
coast from Dixon to
the Minina Skerries
and the Skerries
themselves, but the
secret of the
“Hercules”
expedition`s loss
still remains
unrevealed (Shparo,
Shumilov, 1982,
1992; Koryakin,
1987). Nevertheless,
a lot has been
clarified. Thus, in
the light of new
information it
became clear that
the remnants of a
bonfire and the
small things found
by Beguichev in 1921
did not belong to
Tessem and Knuden,
but to the members
of Rusanov`s
expedition. Apart
from it, the search
expeditions, mainly
the expedition of
the newspaper
“Komsomolskaya
Pravda” under the
leadership of
D.I.Shapiro
(scientific leader
A.V.Shumilo), made a
lot of most
interesting findings
on the north-western
coast of Taimyr in
1973-77; a food
storage of E.V.Toll,
polls put up by
N.A.Beguichev,
remnants of the
expeditions of the
1930s, old fishing
and hunting winter
bases, remnants of a
ship near the
Pestsovy Island etc.
(Shparo and others,
1975). The major
part of the examined
territory is
included in the
Great Arctic Nature
Reserve now.
The further
investigation works
in Taimyr were
interrupted by the
Great Patriotic War.
In 1942-44 the
eastern part of the
Kara
Sea
became an arena of
combatant actions.
Hydrographers and
winterers of the
polar stations
worked practically
on the front line.
The heroic defence
of
Dixon
and an unequal
battle of the
ice-breaking steam
ship “Sibiryakov”
and the German
fascist raider
“Admiral Scheer” in
August 1942 is well
known. On 18th
September 1943 the
enemy submarine
burnt a polar
station on the
Pravdy
Island.
On 26th
August 1944 the
hydrographical ship
“Nord” was sunk near
the
Belukha
Island.
On 23rd –
24th
September of the
same year a heated
fight started
between the Soviet
patrol ships SKR-29
and AM-120 and a
German submarine
near the
Kravkova
Island
(Belov, 1969). The
gunners of AM-120
forced one of the
submarines to
retreat, but the
ship was sunk by
another submarine.
The last operation
of Hitler`s Navy in
the Arctic was an
attack against the
polar station on the
Sterlegova Cape. On
26th
September 1944 the
landing forces
captured the station
and took six of its
employees in
captivity. One of
them
(G.V.Bukhtiyarov)
managed to run away.
The others were
brought by the
Germans to
Norway,
where, after their
refusal to
cooperate, they were
put in a prison.
They were liberated
from there by the
Red Army forces. The
polar station was
burnt down. The
battle near Taimyr
coasts still remains
one of the little
known pages of the
Great Patriotic War.
Right after the end
of the war
hydrographical and
geological works
were resumed on the
Taimyr section of
the
Northern Marine Way.
In the late 1940s –
early 1950s several
large geodesic,
aero-photographic
and geological
expeditions worked
there. They
completed the
cartography of
Severnaya Zemlya and
the
Taimyr Peninsula.
In 1951-54 several
hydrographical
expeditions, engaged
in the land survey
of the archipelagos
of the central part
of the Kara See,
worked there at the
same time. A lot of
small islands were
discovered and
modern navigation
maps were made.
The 1950s-70s can be
considered as the
time of flourishing
of hydrographical
works in the
Arctic.
Regular
investigations for
the compilation of
large-scale
navigational and
topographical maps,
surveying works,
installation of
navigational signs
in the districts of
the most difficult
access in the Arctic
were expanded by
Leningrad
Hydrographical
Organization of the
Ministry of Marine
Fleet (HO MMF),
created on the basis
of the
Hydrographical
Administration of
MMW. The HO system
included Dixon
Hydrographical Base,
founded in August
1944, and Khatanga
Hydrographical Base.
They are engaged in
the survey and
measurement, as well
as the installation
and maintenance of
lighthouses, buoys,
folding and
navigational signs.
The main measurement
and topographical
works are carried
out from the ice in
spring, pilotage
works – from ships
and helicopters in
spring and in
summer. For example,
on the section of
Dixon Hydrobase
there were about 40
radio-lighthouses
and more than 300
navigational signs.
From year to year,
since 1959,
hydrographers set
out on sleigh-truck
trains to the north,
where they made
detailed surveys.
Thus, in 1961 the
work on the
compilation of maps
of the northern part
of Taimyr – the
Chelyuskin
Peninsula was completed,
in 1964-67 – the
Minina Skerries. The
following
hydrographers` names
are well known:
A.I.Kosoy,
A.V.Maryshev,
V.I.Tsyganyuk,
P.Ya.Mikhalenko,
I.I.Chevykalov,
A.G.Divinets,
V.Ya.Leskinen,
M.E.Bekzhanov,
Yu.K.Chernokaltsev,
V.A.Troitsky and
others.
After the end of the
war the construction
of new polar
stations both on the
continent (Eclipse
Bay, 1949; Rybak,
1950), and on the
islands (Vize
Island, 1945;
Isachenko Island,
1953; Izvestiy TSIK
Islands, 1953)
continued.
Even during the war
geological
prospecting works in
the search for
rare-earth and
radioactive elements
under the leadership
of N.N.Urvantsev,
the chief geologist
of Norilsk Works,
began. Extensive
geological works
were expanded in
North-Western Taimyr
in 1946, when the
State Geological
Survey in the scale:
1:1 000 000 began
there. In 1946-55
the geological
groups of
E.A.Velichko,
V.I.Tychinsky,
O.A.Novikov,
V.A.Zolotukhin,
A.F.Barabashin,
S.A.Logachev,
V.A.Cherepanov,
Yu.E.Pogrebitsky and
other employees of
the Scientific
Research Institute
of Geology of the
Arctic (SRIGA)
worked on the
territories, which
are now included in
the Great Arctic
Nature Reserve.
Along the geological
surveys mining works
were also carried
out in the basins of
the rivers Lenivaya,
Izvilistaya,
Khutudabiga,
Pyasina, Verkhnyaya
Taimyra, on the
Kamennye
Islands,
on the
Morzhovy
Island
and on the
Birulinskoye mica
field. On the verge
of the 1940-50s
large settlements of
geologists,
geodesists and
aviators appeared in
Lomonosov,
Vostochnaya, to the
east of the
Sterlegova
Cape,
Tareya and
Ust-Tareya on the
Pyasina
River. More than ten coal
fields were found on
a small territory
between the coast of
the
Yeniseisky
Bay
and Pyasina.
Geographers and
biologists visited
Northern Taimyr
much more seldom
than hydrographers
and geologists.
Thus, in 1946-48
comprehensive
research was carried
out by the Taimyr
expedition of the
Arctic Institute
under the leadership
of B.A.Tikhomirov
and V.N.Koshkin on
Dixon, in
the
Taimyra
River estuary, on the
Sterlegova
Cape
and on the
Taimyr
Lake. In
1949 a
specially created
Taimyr expedition
(leader
V.A.Mininberg), in
which such prominent
scientists as the
zoologist
L.A.Portenko, the
botanist
B.A.Tikhomirov, the
permafrost expert
A.I.Popov took part,
examined the place
where almost a whole
corpse of a mammoth
was found, and
managed to
successfully extract
and deliver it to
Leningrad. In 1949
the employees of
Igarsk permafrost
station worked in
the Lower and
Middle
Pyasina
River.
In 1950s the
Scientific Research
Institute of Polar
Land Cultivation,
Animal-breeding,
Hunting and Fishing
Business of CANMW,
renamed into SRI of
Agriculture of the
Extreme North (SRIA
of the Extreme
North), was
transferred from
Leningrad to
Norilsk. The
employees of this
largest Taimyr
scientific
institution
(V.N.Andreyev,
M.M.Geller,
V.A.Zabrodin,
E.F.Zabrodina,
Ya.I.Kokorev,
L.A.Kolpashchikov,
V.A.Kuxov,
L.N.Michurin, B.M.
Pavlov,
G.D.Yakushkin and
many others) have
thoroughly studied
the flora and the
fauna of the basin
of the
Upper
Pyasina River.
They have fulfilled
a great deal of
interesting works on
the route and at
numerous permanent
bases. The research
was mostly devoted
to the biology and
zoology of reindeer,
waterfowl, other
ornithofauna, polar
fox, lemmings;
epidemiology and
parasitology;
botany; reindeer
breeding; anatomy
and physiology of
animals. After
1985 a
considerable part of
the works was
devoted to the study
of unfavourable
influence of Norilsk
Works` emissions on
the tundra
landscape. Economic
consequences of
human activity`s
intensification in
Western Taimyr were
intensively studied,
as well as the ways
of creation of a
local supply base
for the population
of Norilsk.
Employees of SRIA of
the Extreme North
“rafted” often
downstream the
rivers Pyasina,
Pura, Dudypta,
Agapa, Tareya,
Mokoritto, Yangoda,
Gorbita, Luktakh and
others. The
interfluve of the
Pura and the
Pyasina
Rivers, the basin of the
upper part of the
latter and the area
of the Purinskiye
lakes have been
especially
thoroughly studied.
In 1958 the first
aero-calculation of
the size of wild
reindeer`s
population was made.
Later it was done
regularly. It was
found out that the
main places of
Taimyr reindeer`s
calving are situated
in the interfluve of
the Pyasina and the
Pura Rivers, where
up to 90% of Taimyr
reindeer population
gathered in
July-August. In
1965 a
permanent biological
base of the
Botanical Institute
of the
Academy
of
Sciences
of the
USSR
was organized in the
estuary of the
Tareya
River. Botanical,
phytocoenological,
floristical, soil,
entomological,
zoological and
geographical
research works were
conducted there till
the beginning of the
1970s.
In 1967 the
employees of the
project and
prospecting
expedition of
Glavokhota (Chief
Hunting
Administration) of
RSFSR (chief
executive
A.I.Matyushin)
developed a project
of creating a nature
reserve in the
interfluve of the
Pyasina and the
Pura
Rivers. That was the first
version of the
future Taimyr nature
reserve project.
Later (in 1988) the
nature reserve was
organized there.
Another unique
object is the
Pyasina delta, where
about one quarter of
all moulting geese
of Western and
Central Taimyr
gather – more than
230 000 birds. At
the present time the
Pyasina delta has
the category of
water-and-swamp
areas of
international
importance.
In 1985 the Polar
Expedition of
Leningrad Department
of the Institute of
Archaeology of the
Academy of Sciences
of the USSR, under
the leadership of
L.P.Khlobystin,
studied an ancient
(18th
century B.C.)
settlement in the
estuary of Pyasina`s
tributary – the
Polovinka River, and
then the site
“Pyasina-4-A” in the
lower part of the
Pyasina River.
L.P.Khlobystin and
his colleagues have
developed in their
works an idea of
pyasinsk culture of
bronze casting
production
(Khlobystin, 1998).
In 1984-86 the
Arctic Estuary
Hydrological
expedition and
Expedition A-118 of
the Arctic and
Antarctic Scientific
Research Institute
(the leaders
respectively
A.V.Ufimtsev and
A.V.Kholostov)
worked in the
Lower
Pyasina
River. A geomorphologic
group of Expedition
A-118 under the
leadership of
D.Yu.Bolshiyanov
worked in the
Pyasina estuary.
Travelling on
motor-boats the
geographers made up
a geomorphologic map
of the Pyasina
delta, studied the
Quaternary sediments
and the relief of
the adjacent areas,
including the
islands Forvaterny,
Ptichyi, the
Beguichevskaya Spit,
the Vysokaya Mount,
the Beguicheva River
estuary, and visited
the ruins of
Beguichev`s
log-house. They
carried out
engineering and
geological drilling
and made
thermo-metrical
observations in the
wells.
Thus, the
investigation of
North-Western
Taimyr, which began
in the first half of
the 17th
century, reached the
highest
intensiveness in the
1930s-50s. The
priority directions
were cartographic
and geological, as
well as
hydrometeorological,
fishing and hunting.
Other works were
conducted to a great
extent incidentally.
The 1930s-50s were
also the years of
the maximum load on
the natural
complexes of a major
part of the Great
Arctic Nature
Reserve. The
territories around
the prospected
fields were
subjected to an
intensive
contamination. The
hunt for polar
foxes, birds, sea
animals and fishing
were absolutely
unregulated.
The vegetation and
animals on the
territory of the
future Great Arctic
Nature Reserve have
almost been
uninvestigated until
the 1980s. The
research works,
which were
predominantly
conducted in the
late 1920s by
I.I.Kolyushev (1933)
and V.G.Geptner
(1936), were devoted
to the hunted fauna
in the area of
Dixon and
the
Lower
Pyasina River.
In 1947-49
V.M.Sdobnikov (1959,
1959a and others)
worked in Northern
Taimyr, including
the
Lower
Taimyra River.
In 1970s
P.S.Tomkovich and
N.V.Vronsky
conducted their
research works there
(Tomkovich, Vronsky,
1994).
The coasts, adjacent
to the Dixon Island
from the south, the
biological permanent
base “Tareya”, the
Chelyuskin Peninsula
and the
Pronchishchevoy Bay
were in the 1960-70s
a multi-year ground
of comprehensive
biocoenological
investigations which
were conducted by
scientists of the
Botanical Institute
of the Russian
Academy of Sciences
with the
participation of a
zoological group
under the leadership
of the correspondent
member of the
Russian Academy of
Sciences
Yu.I.Chernov
(Institute of
Ecological and
Evolutionary
Problems of the
Russian Academy of
Sciences – IEEP
RAS). In 1973 and
1974 the works were
carried out on the
Chelyuskin
Cape; the group consisted
of botanists,
microbiologists and
zoologists. The main
purpose of the
research was to give
a comprehensive
quantitative
estimation to all
main groups of
animals and plants
as components of
polar deserts`
communities (Arctic
tundra…, 1979,
Chernov and others,
1979 and other).
Since 1988 the
Arctic Expedition of
IEEP RAS (until 1993
–
Institute
of
Evolutionary
Morphology
and Ecology of
Animals of RAS)
under the leadership
of the academician
E.E.Syroechkovski
began its work on
the territory of the
future Nature
Reserve. In 1988-1992
a
comprehensive
biological
investigation of the
Sibiryakova
Island was conducted. The
group of Professor
V.B.Kuvaev carried
out a detailed study
of the island`s
flora and vegetation
(Kuvaev and others,
1994). Before that
botanists worked on
the island only
twice: in the summer
1926 A.I.Tolmachev
worked in the
south-western part
of the island
(A.I.Tolmachev,
1926, 1931), and in
the summer 1950
N.V.Matveyev and
L.L.Zanyukha worked
on the eastern coast
of the island
(N.V.Matveyev,
L.L.Zanyukha, 1985).
Apart from the
botanical studies
ornithological
research works were
also conducted.
E.E.Syroechkovski
and O.A.Chernikov
from IEEP RAS and
Ukrainian
Ornithologists from
Melitopol Teachers`
Training Institute
under the leadership
of A.I.Koshelev
participated in
these works. The
study of the unique
island population of
wild reindeer was
undertaken by
E.E.Syroechkovski,
A.S.Abolits and
O.A.Chernikov. The
physical and
geographical survey
was made by
F.A.Romanenko.
In 1990-1992
stationary
ornithological,
teriological and
botanical works were
conducted in the
area of the
Knipovicha
Bay, along the study of the routes in
the estuary part of
the
Nizhnyaya
Taimyra
River
and the basin of the
Malinovskogo
River. The materials
collected there
under the guidance
of P.S.Tomkovich
served as a basis
for the creation of
the most complete
overview of the
nesting ecology of a
number of high
arctic species of
sandpipers
Limicolae:
Calidris
canutus, Calidris
alba, Calidris
ferruginea and
others. During the
same years
large-scale
aero-calculations of
moulting geese`s
quantity and the
ringing of brent
geese
Branta bernicla
(about 1500 birds
were ringed) were
conducted in the
Lower Nizhnyaya
Taimyra, in the
basin of the
Leningradskaya River
and in the adjacent
territories. A
member of the
expedition - the
ornithologist
I.I.Chupin examined
the
Lower
Shrenk
River.
Joint Russian-Dutch
research works in
the area of the
Ptichyi
Islands
and in the adjacent
sections of the
Pyasina delta began
in 1990 and
continued till 1994.
The Dutch scientists
studied profoundly
the ecology of brent
geese B.
bernicla, while
the Russian
participants made
comprehensive
ecological systems`
observations. The
Lower
Lenivaya
River, located between
these sections of
stationary works of
the Arctic
Expedition, was the
place of periodic
ornithological
observations during
three seasons.
Before, in 1983, the
ornithologists
P.S.Tomkovich and
N.V.Vronsky already
worked there, having
compiled the first
overview of
ornithofauna of this
area (Tomkovich,
Vronsky, 1988).
In 1993 the Arctic
Expedition of IEEP
RAS (the group
leader A.V.Rybkin)
started a multi-year
monitoring of the
fauna of birds and
animals in the area
of the
Meduza
Bay,
to the south of
Dixon.
In the same year,
the biological
station “Billem
Barents” was created
in the
Meduza
Bay
by the initiative of
the academician
E.E.Syroechkovski.
Its task is to serve
as a base for
stationary and
monitoring works of
Russian and foreign
scientists. The
construction of the
station was funded
by the Ministry of
Agriculture, Natural
Resources and
Fishing of Holland.
This area became the
place of constant
research works of
Russian, Dutch and
other foreign
scientists, which
continue in the
present, now within
the framework of the
Great Arctic Nature
Reserve`s activity.
Ornithological,
other zoological and
various geographical
and botanical
research works are
conducted there.
The
Izvestiy
TSIK Islands,
the islands Sverdrup
and Russkiy in the
Nordensheld
Archipelago were
examined for the
first time by
ornithologists of
IEEP RAS under the
leadership of
E.E.Syroechkovski
Jr. in 1992-93. The
geographer
F.A.Romanenko and
the botanist
Yu.P.Kozhevnikov
participated in the
expedition`s groups.
The main areas of
brent geese`s
B.bernicla
nesting and large
colonies of white
gulls
Pagophila eburnea
were discovered
there.
In
1994 a
number of sections
of Northern Taimyr:
the Arctic Institute
Islands, the Zarya
Peninsula, the
Pravdy Island, the
Nansen Island, a
number of sections
on the western coast
of the Chelyuskin
Peninsula, the
Komsomolskoy Pravdy
Islands and the
adjacent area of the
polar station
“Andreya” were
examined in the
course of work of
the Russian-Swedish
expedition “Ecology
of Tundra-94”
(scientific leader
E.E.Syroechkovski).
Although their
visits were not very
long, the scientific
force, which has
examined these
districts, was
rather considerable
(about 40
scientists). The
first scientific
results have been
published (Syroechkovski
Sr., Rogacheva,
1995; Syroechkovski
Sr., Kuprianov 1995;
Romanenko 1995;
Syroechkovski Jr.
1995; Syroechkovski
Jr., 1995 and
others).
The work of the
research group
employees of the
Nature Reserve has
been for many years
concentrated on the
study of the
influence of Norilsk
Ore Mining and
Dressing Works on
the flora and fauna
both of the Nature
Reserve`s territory
and the Taimyr
Peninsula`s
territory with the
adjacent sea area;
on the study of
damaged and
destroyed vegetative
and soil cover of
the tundra, in
particular the
territory around
drilling units,
along the routes of
the laid gas and oil
pipelines and the
pipelines, which are
being currently
laid, and also the
places of natural
destruction of the
soil cover in the
process of its
thawing in the
summer period (Chuprova,
1995, 1996, 2006;
Chuprova, Afanasiev,
2003; Chuprova,
Chuprov, 2004). This
type of works is
aimed at the
optimization of
anthropogenic
landscapes, which
are formed both on
the territory of the
Taimyr Peninsula,
and in various other
regions of the
Extreme North (Chuprova,
2006).
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